Sakoo sai moo

Filling: 200 g ground pork; 2 shallots, minced; 2 garlic cloves, minced; plus the remaining ingredients listed for this component. Cook shallots, garlic and cilantro roots in filling oil. Add pork and cook through; add fish sauce, soy, palm sugar and pepper, then peanuts. Cook until dry enough to hold together and cool. Cook aromatics over medium heat and pork to 71°C/160°F. Reduce sauce until it clings, then cool promptly.

Shell: 250 g small white tapioca pearls (not large boba); 475 ml boiling water. Pour boiling water over pearls, stir and rest 10 minutes. Knead gently with damp hands once cool enough to handle. Use small pearls, not boba or starch powder. Stir to hydrate evenly, cover and wait until safe to touch.

Divide into 24, press each portion into a 7 cm disk and enclose an equal share of filling. Roll into sealed balls. Damp hands prevent sticking; keep walls even, enclose filling fully and smooth thin spots.

Serve: 12 lettuce leaves; 12 cilantro sprigs; 1 tbsp oil for steamer. Steam on an oiled lining 15-20 minutes until pearls are soft and translucent. Serve with lettuce and cilantro. Leave gaps and time from steady steam. Pearls should be soft and translucent without hard white centers; lift with an oiled spoon and cool briefly.