Modak

Filling: 140 g grated fresh coconut; 140 g jaggery, grated; 1 tsp ghee; plus the remaining ingredients listed for this component. Warm filling ghee, coconut and jaggery over low heat, stirring until jaggery melts and excess moisture evaporates. Add cardamom and cool to a soft, non-runny filling. Scrape the pan over low heat and stop when filling holds a moist mound; overcooked jaggery hardens.

Dough: 180 g fine plain rice flour; 300 ml water; 1 tsp ghee; plus the remaining ingredients listed for this component. Bring dough water, salt and ghee to a boil. Stir in rice flour, cover and turn off heat. Rest 5 minutes, then knead while warm with lightly greased hands until smooth. Stir flour in briskly, knead once safe to touch and keep warm dough covered.

Divide dough into 12, flatten each into a thin cup and add an equal share of filling. Pinch 6-8 pleats around the rim, bring them together and seal into a pointed top. Thin walls with lightly greased fingers, keep filling below rim and pinch every pleat together with no gaps.

Steam on a greased plate over boiling water 12-15 minutes. Rest 3 minutes before lifting and serving. Start timing at steady steam and check a tender, lightly glossy shell. Let hot jaggery cool slightly before eating.