Baozi

Dough: 360 g all-purpose flour; 215 ml lukewarm water; 4 g instant yeast; plus the remaining ingredients listed for this component. Knead the dough ingredients 10 minutes; cover and let rise until doubled, about 60-90 minutes. Use lukewarm, not hot, water. Knead until supple and slightly tacky. Judge the rise by doubled volume.

Filling: 400 g ground pork; 1 onion (150 g), minced; 2 scallions, chopped; plus the remaining ingredients listed for this component. Soften onion and ginger in oil. Add pork and break it up; cook thoroughly. Add wine, soy sauces, hoisin and sesame oil, then the cornstarch slurry. Cook until moist but not watery; cool fully. Stir in the 2 chopped scallions. Use medium heat, break pork into fine crumbs and cook to 71°C/160°F. Stir the slurry before adding. Add the listed scallions; reduce until sauce clings to meat. Cool promptly in a shallow dish.

Deflate dough and divide into 12. Roll into 12 cm circles with thicker centers. Divide filling among them, pleat edges upward and pinch the tops shut. Thin the rim more than the base, leave it clean and pinch all pleats closed.

Set on parchment squares, leaving expansion room. Proof 20 minutes, then steam over simmering water for 18 minutes. Turn off heat and wait 3 minutes before opening. Leave several centimeters between buns and start timing at steady steam. Keep the lid closed and water below the basket. Open away from the buns after resting.